Hypoestes (Hypoestes Phyllostachya) - home care

Hypoestes is a bright representative of tropical flowers, native to South America and the island of Madagascar, often grown at home.

Briefly about history

There is no reliable information about who first came up with the idea to try to provide hypoesthesia with home care for the shrub. Flower growers are attracted by the brightness of colors and ease of care, landscape designers - by the ability to create the most bizarre combinations when planting hypoesthesia in a flower bed.

general description

The family to which the plant belongs is Acanthus. In the wild, the hypoestes flower forms gigantic, many-meter impenetrable shrub thickets. During the growing season, it gives a large number of shoots, which is why it is distinguished by strong branching. The stem is very densely covered with foliage. The leaf is similar in shape to a chicken egg. Its edges are most often smooth, but may be jagged in some species.

Hypoestes is a gorgeous plant native to the tropics

The leaves look very beautiful and unusual. On their surface are scattered in random order specks of different sizes, which can be burgundy, white, pink or chocolate shades. At the same time, the foliage itself has either a rich green or purple, turning into a lilac hue.

The flowers of the plant have a very interesting shape. The perianth forms an original flap, which contains from 1 to 3 small flowers. In general, the flowers look quite modest, therefore they are lost against the background of bright leaves, and the flowering process often goes unnoticed.

Common varieties

Hypoestes has a sufficient number of types. Most of them are not suitable for growing at home. The following varieties are most often planted on window sills in a pot.

Phylostach's hypoestes (leaf grate)

Phyllostach's hypoestes (hypoestes phyllostachya) feel great when planted in the house. This species is also known as foliar hypoesthesia. People call the flower a "freckled face" for the large number of specks on the leaves. The violet-red background color of the foliage, which looks very unusual, gives the plant a special decorative effect.

Hypoestes can be grown both at home and outdoors

Interesting. Leaf spikelet hypoestes can be grown with equal success on a windowsill and in a garden (in relatively mild climatic conditions).

Hypoestes Mix

Hypoestes Mix is ​​also called "Confetti". It includes a large number of sub-varieties, including:

  • Red crimson;
  • White;
  • Crimson;
  • Red wine.

From the name of the variety, it becomes clear that the colors can be very different. Semi-lignified juicy stems and leaves with well-traced veins are typical for Mixes. The length of the foliage, depending on the subspecies and growing conditions, can vary from 8 to 10 cm.

Hypoestes pink

Hypoesthesia pink has another name - Pink Veil.This variety is considered to be fast growing and is often propagated from seeds at home. The foliage of this variety is characterized by the presence of a large number of pale pink spots on a bright green background. Since pink hypoesthesia is compact and rarely grows above 20 cm, it is often planted in apartments.

Care features

Like any other culture, hypoesthesia needs some care.

Temperature

In summer, hypoesthesia, both in the garden and in the apartment, feels best in a temperature range from +20 to +25 degrees. If climatic conditions allow, it is allowed to grow hypoesthesia bushes in the open field.

Even an inexperienced gardener can grow hypoestes

If it is not possible to provide the flower with + 18-20 degrees in winter, it is better to move it to the house during the cold season.

Lighting

Hypoesthesia needs good lighting when growing. It will feel good both in diffused light and in short-term exposure to direct sunlight. In the presence of the latter condition, the color of the foliage will become even brighter.

Watering

Taking care of a flower means watering it in a timely manner. In the case of hypoesthesia, this must be done as the soil dries out. In the fall, the amount of watering can be reduced.

Important! Overdrying of the soil should not be allowed under any circumstances. An interesting property is characteristic of the plant - with a minimum moisture deficit, the shrub begins to shed its foliage.

Spraying

Experts recommend spraying with settled (or distilled water) daily.

Humidity

The optimum air humidity for hypoesthesia is 65-80%. The indicated indicator is maintained by regular spraying of the bush.

Priming

Planting a plant at home should be done in a specially prepared soil mixture, which includes river sand, peat, leafy soil and compost in equal proportions. It is equally important that the formation of the flower occurs without problems, to organize drainage.

Top dressing

It is necessary to feed an ornamental shrub throughout the year. In summer, it is recommended to repeat the procedure twice a month, in winter - once is enough. Fertilizers can be used of a universal type.

Important! It is recommended to avoid mixtures containing large amounts of nitrogen. From the excess of this useful substance in the soil, the leaves begin to fade.

In winter

The plant does not need special care during the dormant period. You just need to reduce the number of watering, protect the flower from drafts and sudden changes in temperature and not place it in the immediate vicinity of heating devices, making sure that the temperature in the room does not exceed +20 degrees.

When and how it blooms

Hypoestes begins to bloom from the beginning of summer and continues almost until the onset of winter. The flowering itself is quite abundant. Since the flowering of hypoesthesia is not the most mystical and bewitching process, experienced flower growers prefer to pinch the buds. The fact is that the abundant formation of flowers takes a lot of strength from the plant, and it may die.

Breeding features

Reproduction of hypoesthesia is possible in two ways:

  • Germination of seeds;
  • Rooting cuttings.

Germination from seeds

Germinating hypoesthesia from seeds at home is very often practiced. Seedlings germinate well and do not require special care. The procedure is as follows:

  1. Prepare the container and soil.
  2. Moisten the soil mixture.
  3. Seeds are sown.
  4. Sprinkle the seeds with earth a little.
  5. The container is covered with foil and left for several days until shoots appear.
  6. After the sprouts appear, the film is removed.
  7. As they grow, the seedlings are transplanted into separate pots.
  8. When a young plant reaches a growth of 15 cm, the top is pinched in order to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots.

Rooting cuttings

Cutting is another popular method of propagation of a flower culture.

Important! When using this technique, you need to take into account some of the nuances. For example, the fact that the cutting will root faster in water than in soil.

The process of grafting itself looks like this:

  1. In the spring, cuttings are cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
  2. The stalk should be 7 to 10 cm long.
  3. Put the cuttings in a container of water.
  4. The next day, the cuttings are rearranged into an opaque container and covered with foil.
  5. The container is placed in a warm and bright place, avoiding direct sunlight.
  6. After the roots appear, the seedlings are transplanted into pots.
  7. The top is cut off.

Transfer

It is recommended to transplant in the spring. You don't have to do this too often. The plant should be replaced every three years with a young one, since with age the flower loses its beauty, starting to become bare and strongly stretch in length.

Planting a flower is not the most difficult procedure.

The pot should be chosen not very deep, but wide.

How to pinch correctly

It is necessary to pinch the shoots periodically throughout the year. This should be done in such a way that the total height of the flower does not rise above 40 centimeters. After pinching, the shrub begins to branch vigorously, and a beautiful and lush plant is obtained.

Growing problems

In the process of growing an ornamental shrub, certain difficulties can arise. Most often, we are talking about the following points.

Shedding leaves

The culture begins to actively shed its leaves with a lack of moisture, too low temperature or a draft. Making the appropriate adjustments to the care of the plant will easily solve the problem.

Blanching leaves

Blanching of foliage is most often associated with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Continuous exposure to direct sunlight can also cause problems. The leaves will become bright again if the flower is transplanted into a new suitable soil or rearranged in a place with diffused light.

Drying the tips of the leaves

Usually, the leaves begin to dry out due to insufficient watering or too low air humidity. Increasing the frequency of watering and daily spraying will resolve the issue.

Falling of the lower leaves

The fall of the lower leaves in most cases is associated with the age of the crop. Perhaps it's time to rejuvenate hypoesthesia.

Pests

Most often, the shrub suffers from an attack by a spider mite or scale insect. Periodic use of insecticides (including for prophylactic purposes) will allow you not to think about harmful insects.

Hypoestes and Coleus: differences

Some people confuse hypoesthesia with coleus. In fact, these are completely different plants, which even belong to different families (Acanthus versus Sponges (Lamiaceae).

Hypoestes is a wonderful decoration for your home or office

The only thing these two plants have in common is variegated foliage. The shape of the leaves of the coleus is not ovoid, but resembling nettle in shape. The contrasting color of its leaves never forms in the form of simple spots, as is the case with hypoesthesia. As a rule, these are borders, veins, streaks, striped patterns, etc. Thus, there are so many differences between hypoestes and coleus that it makes no sense even to compare these two flowers.

Hypoestes and Fittonia: differences

The differences between hypoesthesia and fittonia are not so significant. Not too experienced growers, in principle, do not differentiate between these two shrubs. The difference, however, is. So, in hypoesthesia, the foliage is larger and softer to the touch. In addition, hypoesthesia is an upright plant, while Fittonia begins to creep without periodic pruning. It is often used as a ground cover crop.

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